Fish stocks are depleting

It’s a fishy tale all right. The Food Standards Agency (FSA) recommends we eat two portions of fish a week, one of which should be of an oily variety. Of course this is excellent advice that will keep us fit and healthy through the winter months. However, the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) has reported that 70 per cent of world fish stocks are now fully fished, over-fished, or seriously depleted. So where does that leave us fish lovers? The answer is sustainable seafood. There is now a varied and widely available range of sustainable fish, alternatives to the old but endangered favourites of cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns. Mitch Tonks, award winning chef, fishmonger and founder of the FishWorks restaurant group, fully supports the sustainability surge and the part consumers can play. He says, ‘As consumers, we must make sure we buy from fishmongers and retailers that have a keen interest in sustainability, and that their fish is bought from well managed fisheries, who employ a responsible policy.’

A helping hand
Making the right choice for your twice weekly is not as complicated as it seems. The Marine Conservation Society (MCS) publishes a list of fish deemed within sustainable levels using methods that aren’t harmful to the marine environment or other aquatic species. Visit their website at http://www.fishonline.org for the inside track on what to buy, where to buy it, and what to ask your local supplier.

Shoppers should also look out for the blue and white fish-tick logo of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) as proof that the fish you buy is responsibly and sustainably sourced. If you spot this logo, you can be sure that the tasty dinner you are going to enjoy is farmed from healthy stocks.

Spreading the net
Tonks encourages consumers to step out of their fish comfort zone and embrace the variety that sustainable fish shopping offers. ‘When it comes to eating and cooking we often stick to what we know; my philosophy with fish and shellfish has always been to try and demystify what many see as a complicated food.’ He suggests some tasty ways to make the most of your choices, ‘Try roasting a humble mackerel with some pungent North-African spices, or enjoy some farmed sea bream or bass in the same way as you would a wild fish.’

Different doesn’t mean less tasty, so let Kitchen Angels guide you through the best aqua-friendly choices for your meals.

Lemon sole
Lemon sole is normally caught as a by-catch in trawl fisheries and its fishery remains largely unregulated. The best choice is otter trawl fish landed in Cornwall, where a minimum landing size (25cm) above the size at which the sole matures (below 25cm) is strictly enforced. Avoid eating during the breeding months of April to August or you risk depleting the stocks even further.

Mackerel
The mackerel species belongs to a group of fish related to the tuna. An oily fish, it is a good choice for your FSA recommended weekly portion and is flavoursome and tasty when grilled. Although stocks are healthy, avoid those fished from the North Sea and instead opt for net- or line-caught mackerel from MSC certified fisheries, particularly Cornwall.

Pollack
Pollack is a close cousin of cod, with similar succulent, chunky white flakes and flavour – good news for cod and haddock lovers everywhere. North-east Atlantic pollack is widely considered the best substitute for its two more popular cousins. Line-caught pollack is the recommended choice as fish are caught on individual hooks. Avoid eating from January to April, as this is the breeding season.

Whiting
This small fish has traditionally been regarded as hit and miss, not great value and often discarded in large quantities when fished. The MCS recommends the English Channel stock as the healthiest option for your whiting quota. It’s size and taste makes it ideal for fishcakes.

Black bream
Black bream is commonly found in north European seas, but the most sustainable stocks are in northern and north-west Wales and Cornwall. Where available, choose line-caught fish, or fish caught in fixed nets. Avoid eating immature bream (less than 23cm) and don’t buy during the spawning season, which runs from April to May in UK inshore waters.